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Slight stuttering when revving from idle to about 3k?


RipGroove

RipGroove

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Joined
Feb 27, 2014
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As above my engine seems to stutter a little when revving quickly from idle to about 3000rpm, this is most noticeable when down shifting and blipping the throttle at lower speeds, also the engine seems to "sneeze" while held at a constant rpm, most noticeable while cruising at lower speeds, anyone else have anything similar,is it just a trait of a triple? I'm pretty sure it's been like it from new.

I have definitely had the sneezing issue from new, and thought the revving stuttering was down to my EJK fuel controller not being tweaked correctly but I just tried it after somewhat deactivating that and still have the issue.

Bike as it stands:

Akrapovic (DBK out) (hose NOT yet blocked in airbox)
C0 14
EJK settings: G5.5 Y4.0 R3.0 GB3.0 YB3.5 RB3.5
G2 Throttle tamer

On a side note the throttle roll on is now super smooth in A-mode and the engine breaking is much much smoother with both the EJK and G2 fitted, aside from the above I'm very happy with how it rides now, especially as it didn't cost the earth to achieve :cool:
 
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I have the standard exhaust on mine so not sure if the Akra could be the cause, but from what I've heard its simply the O2 sensor doing its job. Mine does the exact same but as soon as increase revs it disappears.

On a side note, is the Akra worth the almost £1000 they want for it? I want an aftermarket exhaust for mine but haven't heard any in person. Arrow's sound the same as Akra's on YouTube but are £300 less.
 
DLisi1993 said:
I have the standard exhaust on mine so not sure if the Akra could be the cause, but from what I've heard its simply the O2 sensor doing its job. Mine does the exact same but as soon as increase revs it disappears.

On a side note, is the Akra worth the almost £1000 they want for it? I want an aftermarket exhaust for mine but haven't heard any in person. Arrow's sound the same as Akra's on YouTube but are £300 less.
Click to expand...
they sound very different, the arrow is rideable at any speed with the db killer out. the akra is proper lairy at low speed and will make your ears bleed over 5000rpm.
 
DLisi1993 said:
Akra it is then. Got some neighbors who are complaining about the 'volume' of my stock exhaust... Let's see how they like the Akra :D
Click to expand...
put a fire detector in your garage cos they'll not like this on an evening....
[video=youtube;TOVlZIWIBnE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOVlZIWIBnE&list=UUppV-bP0W-5BSCEZ3kW7yRw[/video]
 
DLisi1993 said:
Akra it is then. Got some neighbors who are complaining about the 'volume' of my stock exhaust... Let's see how they like the Akra :D
Click to expand...

Screw the neighbors! LOL

I always wanted one of them telling me to remove my pipe because its too loud... it's even louder strait pipe! LOL
 
DLisi1993 said:
I have the standard exhaust on mine so not sure if the Akra could be the cause, but from what I've heard its simply the O2 sensor doing its job. Mine does the exact same but as soon as increase revs it disappears.

On a side note, is the Akra worth the almost £1000 they want for it? I want an aftermarket exhaust for mine but haven't heard any in person. Arrow's sound the same as Akra's on YouTube but are £300 less.
Click to expand...

Ah OK so maybe it's just normal then.

As for the Akra, I absolutely love the sound, at first I found it a bit too deep at low revs with the DBK out but after a few rides I got used to it, and on full chat it howls like a right beast! I personally wouldn't have any other exhaust on the MT. That said though I did get mine for £300 as part of the deal when I bought my bike. Would I spend £800 odd on one? If I'd never heard one in person then probably not, but now I have I'd recommend it for sure. IMO it's also the only exhaust that that looks like it;s meant to be on the MT, to me the rest just look like MX bike cans stuck out at funny angles (just my opinion of course).
 
Found that in the other house. Might worth giving it a try?

Go into diagnostics mode* and click over to diagnostics codes 14 and 15, these are accelerator position sensor signals 1 and 2. the range for 'fully closed' for 14 (aps1) is 12-22, and for 15 (aps2), it's 10-24. so loosen the bolts on the sensor and rotate it so the number with the throttle grip closed is closer to the higher end of the range, but not exceeding it (as you open the throttle, the numbers go up). doing this sensor adjustment effectively removes the 'slack' in the sensor. after tightening the sensor bolts, verify that both numbers don't exceed the upper limits.

keep in mind though that as with the throttle cables, the 'slack' in the sensor is there for a reason. it's possible the resting value could change over time. just something to keep in mind if you discover one day you're unable to change drive modes.
 
marthy said:
Screw the neighbors! LOL

I always wanted one of them telling me to remove my pipe because its too loud... it's even louder strait pipe! LOL
Click to expand...

Marthy, I've looked at your videos on YouTube of the system and fuel controller you offer and that's my 3rd choice. Do you know what people end up paying in terms of import costs to the UK?

These are the same people who accuse my 100 percent standard 1.1 Citroen Saxo of being too noisy as well. Some people.

Cheers for reply, Rip.
 
DLisi1993 said:
Marthy, I've looked at your videos on YouTube of the system and fuel controller you offer and that's my 3rd choice. Do you know what people end up paying in terms of import costs to the UK?

These are the same people who accuse my 100 percent standard 1.1 Citroen Saxo of being too noisy as well. Some people.

Cheers for reply, Rip.
Click to expand...

Cost me £150 to UK with £34 import TAX, well worth the money :-)
 
marthy said:
Found that in the other house. Might worth giving it a try?

Go into diagnostics mode* and click over to diagnostics codes 14 and 15, these are accelerator position sensor signals 1 and 2. the range for 'fully closed' for 14 (aps1) is 12-22, and for 15 (aps2), it's 10-24. so loosen the bolts on the sensor and rotate it so the number with the throttle grip closed is closer to the higher end of the range, but not exceeding it (as you open the throttle, the numbers go up). doing this sensor adjustment effectively removes the 'slack' in the sensor. after tightening the sensor bolts, verify that both numbers don't exceed the upper limits.

keep in mind though that as with the throttle cables, the 'slack' in the sensor is there for a reason. it's possible the resting value could change over time. just something to keep in mind if you discover one day you're unable to change drive modes.
Click to expand...

Do you think that would help? Is it worth me checking the values first before stripping it down?
 
RipGroove said:
Do you think that would help? Is it worth me checking the values first before stripping it down?
Click to expand...

Ya check the values first. Mine are 17 and 20. I might give that a shot after work. Doesn't sound too much of a hard work other that pulling the fuel tank off (done 100s of time by now!)
 
marthy said:
Ya check the values first. Mine are 17 and 20. I might give that a shot after work. Doesn't sound too much of a hard work other that pulling the fuel tank off (done 100s of time by now!)
Click to expand...

And you reckon 17 & 20 are OK? Or should I be aiming higher?
 
marthy said:
They claim to try aim for close to max. So to be on the safe side I'll try 20/22. I'll let you know... see where you are at for now.
Click to expand...

OK let me know what you find out :-) My bikes not at home so I can't check mine right now.
 
ok, super easy! Get in diag mode after removing the fuel tank. There's 2 TPS sensor but you need to adjust the one on the left only, at the end of the throttle cable side. That one move the other (8mm wrench) Loosen up the 2 bolts and astern between 14 & 15 not to go over 22/24. Mine end up 20/23... Let's see how it goes.
 
marthy said:
ok, super easy! Get in diag mode after removing the fuel tank. There's 2 TPS sensor but you need to adjust the one on the left only, at the end of the throttle cable side. That one move the other (8mm wrench) Loosen up the 2 bolts and astern between 14 & 15 not to go over 22/24. Mine end up 20/23... Let's see how it goes.
Click to expand...
Hmm might try this then when I'm with the bike next.
 
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